Bespoke was a very common word about a hundred years ago, now most people don’t know what it means, and they would just look at you with a blank expression, it means, custom made, that’s how clothes used to be made, if you were planning to go out about a hundred years ago, you couldn’t just walk down to a shop and pick up some 501s thank you very much sir, no your cloths were made to order, the only places that had clothes on the shelf’s was places like the army, but as fashion changed so did hows cloths were made, in the 1960s fashion changed 100% shops started to make shirts and trousers that could be worn of the peg, shops had been doing this for a long time but not in the volumes that they started then, gone went the days of going to the local tailor picking your fabric & style, getting your first measurement, then your second fitting then finally picking a garment that was tailored for you.
Bespoke became some thing only the rich and famous could have, but now thanks to the internet sites and traveling tailors, you can get a suit blazer or shirt just made the way you want it made, it is some thing I recommend to every young man to get done at least once in their life time, having some thing made that can put your own stamp on is very unique, you get to choose the cut, the collar, the cuffs, the lining, and when it arrives it says made for “YOU”, not made by bla bla in shitty bla bla, it is something that you will be happy to wear and when people say where did you get that from you would say, oh just from my tailor, your friends will say what !, you say it again yes my tailor knocked this little number up for me, then you show them your personal label with your named stitched in it made from the finest silks.
Going bespoke is not that expensive ever you can get a suit or a blazer made from about a hundreds pounds with delivery about £150, but before you go guns blazing you need to find out if bespoke is for you, my advise is first go for a blazer very simple choice, you have two choices scour the internet for visiting tailors book a meeting in a local hotel get measured, or you can find bespoke websites where you can log on and choose what you want to fill in your measurements, four weeks later your suit arrives nice, but first let’s go through the process of building your bespoke garment.
Material yes first you need to pick the material, you can have tweed , plaid, stripe, mohair,wool, my advise is go for wool its an all year around fabric, it keeps you cool in summer and warm in winter, and it looks good, colors it’s up you but personally keep it neutral like a navy or a grey.
Fit now this where you choose the fit you can for a fitted garment which is meant to give you a slim lined figure or you go with a classic fit which hangs of the shoulders just right my self I all ways go for the classic fit.
Button front style this is where you choose how many buttons you want on the front for a blazer you traditionally go for two button if you want one go for a one button do it, if you want three buttons on the front its all down to your taste.
Time to choose your lapel style, you can go peak lapels, notch lapels, rounded notch, shawl lapels, personally stick to notch lapels very classy that will suit most people.
Pockets this gives your garment a more layered look there are many combinations we could go for , so to keep it simple if you go for the fitted look slanted pockets, classic fit go for straight pockets, one thing I would include is a ticket pocket on a blazer very stylish.
Cuffs this is some thing else people over look if you have the choice go for working cuff, most suits don’t have them also you can leave one sleeve button undone to look stylish, also you can choose to get the button holes done in different thread colors, always go for a four button, if your daring go for five guys.
back vent this is the back style of the garment, rule of thumb is a blazer or sports jacket has a center vent a suit has a double vent i.e vents on side but its your garment you choose.
Lining now this usually one area that gets over looked, I say be as loud as you like, people wont see it only when you open your jacket, so when you do flash your going to wow people, lining is really down to your choice, my self I love vibrant prints in bold colors, paisley in bright colors, chines red dragons spitting orange flames, colorful peacock’s with multicolored feathers, Rio carnival dancers in reds and shimmering purples. what ever you choose just give your bespoke garment some pow.
Thread color again another area people miss out on when getting your bespoke garment made you can really personalize it with color, choose a stylish color for button holes & lapel pin holes, not long back I had a navy suit made with an orange lining but to bring the suit together, I had the lapel pin hole and the fourth button-hole on the working cuff stitched with orange silk thread it was the bomb no one has what I have.
now measurement this is most important thing about going bespoke if you don’t get this right you will have wasted your money, if you’re visiting a traveling tailor he will take your measurements, but if you’re doing it through a bespoke site you need a tape measure and a friend, they will have a video explaining how to take measurements do this at least five times, each time Wright the measurements down if all mirror each other fill in the measurement on the site, but there is an easier option most sites you can just click for standard sizes, so get an old suit or jacket that fits you check the size and click the boxes but you still can pick the sleeve size and garment length just to give you that bespoke fit.
I hope I have given you food for thought bespoke is some thing you should try once in your life.
BE BOLD BE PROUD