When you come to buy your first suit it will be one of the biggest decisions you will make, it could be because you’re getting married or you are about to start a new job, or you just need one for future occasions.
Wool has been used for Suits since the 1600’s, we know this because people kept a diary. Suits them self’s have not changed much just the design & the cut its still two garments made from the same material.
So Why Wool
I bet you want to know why l am banging on about wool. Well first it’s not man-made so you wont sweat your nuts off in the summer or freeze in the winter. Because wool is breathable material it circulates air so it keeps you cool in summer & warm in winter. If your caught out in the rain wool can hold 20% moisture due to its waxy fibers so it’s also water proof to a certain degree. Also if you were out on the town partying in a cheap suit & some body chucked sambuca all over you then set you on fire it would be good night Vienna for you, but a wool suit would just smolder.
Wool fabrics are made from worsted wool or woolen yarns so they can be blended with cotton or silk even cashmere also horrible man-made fibers. there are many different weaves, there is Hounds tooth a twill-weave with light & dark threads or Barley corn kind of blurry corn triangles twill-weave, my favorite is herringbone it’s a twill-weave with threads running alternately to the left, but the best is the pinstripe weave mostly seen in grey or navy blue, there are many more but the most common is called Gabardine, it’s a twill rib it comes in solid colors also very water-resistant too.
How a suit fits is top priority, for get about super skinny super short, your buying a 100% pure wool suit, may be it’s not the latest fashion, l know we all want to look good, but a wool suit could last you 10 years or more, are you going to be super skinny in 10 years ?. Tailors don’t talk about of style or fit but of ‘LINE’ & OF ‘BALANCE’ which means the hang of jacket. Because of mass manufacturing & advertising of designer labels, people buy into what they see, but you should bear in mind, you are not some Italian love God called Ghugie Ghugie who looks good in every thing that appears in magazines. You are you so when your investing into a suit buy one that fits you properly. There are some simple key rules when buying a ready-made suit or off the peg to get a proper fit follow these rules.
1. Shoulders’ Because this is where the suit hangs, from the fit should sit on the shoulders if there is any hunching it is to tight or to big.
2. Jacket closure’ if you get the shoulders write the jacket should close writ, if you close the jacket and the front pulls on the button causing a big X on the front it’s too tight, if the lapels hang forward its to big
3. Jacket sleeve’ When you put your jacket over your shirt sleeve ,there should be a half an inch between the shirt cuff and blazer sleeve, basically only 5 inches of cuff should be showing.
4. Jacket collar’ very easy to spot there will be a gap at the back of the collar, if it’s to big if it’s to small.
5. Jacket Length very simple stand tall put your arms down to the side, if the jackets below the hand its to long above to short.
6. The seat’ is your bum area, your trousers should just hang again if very loose to big too much hunching means to small.
7. Trouser break’ where your trouser end it is called the break, a proper fit will result in a simple dimple at the bottom, no dimple to short more than one dimple to long.
Now we have talked about the fit, we know how to get the fit right, the next bit is the look of the suit, remember were buying a 100% wool suit fashion fads come & go, but the standard two button suit has never been out of fashion, at end the end of the day keep it simple & you won’t go wrong. Lapels go for a notch lapel its simple but classic, l always advise go for a two button jacket. remember were not going hunting, so no patch pockets go for slanted or straight pockets with flaps, twin vents are normally for blazers & a double vent is for suits it’s really up to you, the trousers should be a flat front keep it streamlined and the bottom of your trousers should be plain no turn ups etc.
Now we’ve talked about the different weaves that wool can come in, but the color of a suit is very important the rule is keep it simple, think where are you going to be wearing the suit, if don’t work in the dig city stay away from pinstripe, and don’t go for silly electric blues and purples you’re not a pimp, to me you have two choices go for a morning grey & navy blue they will look good at work a wedding or an evening out, l know you can have black but we wear black at sad times and charcoal is for accounts & nasty bankers & MP’s.
Sourcing your suit
Now sourcing your suit this is important, your looking for a 100% pure wool suit not prime Armani best skinny funky bad boy suit for a fiver, But if you are a savvy shopper & don’t mind searching through Goole using long tale searches you will find what your looking for, look out for sales from top men`s stores this will be key in your search too. The best place l got my two piece navy wool suit mixed with cashmere of course was from Marks & Spencer bless their cotton socks it should have been £300 but l got it for £140.00 & two years later it still looks good. So get on the net hit the streets and source out your pure wool suit.
When you are looking for your suit look for the Wool mark, like the one above this it will be found on the label in the inside of the jacket, if it does not have one simply moonwalk out of there fast.
Takeing care of your suit
Wool suits like any thing get dirty & will need cleaning at some point, but wool does not like heat as it breaks down the fibers, so only clean your suit twice a year this is done by dry cleaning don’t be a skin flint and use a coined operated machine go to a proper professional dry cleaners. Your suit will need pressing from time to time, never put a hot iron on the wool hang the suit up & steam it so the creases drop out, or get a damp tea towel put it over the suit then light press with the iron. When you’re not using your suit stick it in a suit bag keeps Hungary moths away, and just give it a good brush before & after you have used it.
I hope this topic has opened your eyes & your wallet not every one is rich in today’s society there is a to much of a throw away attitude because things are so cheap but cheap does not last quality does save your money invest wisely and you will have a wardrobe fit for any occasion for a long time to come.
BE BOLD BE PROUD